Mason Natural
Used muratic acid on brick and it turned it white. What to do next?
My husband and I own a self-service car wash that was build out of red brick. The car wash is about 25 years old and we wanted to get the brick clean. We were told by a mason to use muratic acid and it turned the walls all white! What can we do to fix this and restore the natural color of the brick. THANK YOU for any help you can give.
Muriatic acid is a highly reactive liquid acid, and one of the most dangerous chemicals you can buy for home use. It is an industrial-strength solution of hydrogen chloride gas dissolved in water, also known as hydrochloric acid. Yep, muriatic acid is “super stomach acid”!
With the exception of some plastics, muriatic acid can damage most anything it touches, including clothing, metal, and skin! It emits a suffocating odor that can quickly burn the lining of the nose, throat and even the lungs.
Typical home uses include heavy-duty masonry cleaning, preparation of masonry for painting or sealing, removal of efflorescence or mineral deposits and pH reduction in swimming pools. Its reactive power makes it the chemical of choice for some types of masonry cleaning.
Muriatic acid is sold in a standardized concentration of 31.45% acid and 68.55% inert ingredients, primarily water. This is the concentration you are going to find in your local hardware store. My mixing suggestions are based on this concentration… if the muriatic acid you purchase is stronger, adjust the dilution proportions for the job accordingly.
A masonry surface becomes rough, or “etched”, when it reacts to strong acids. When the powder residue of the reaction (calcium carbonate) is rinsed off, you are left with a very clean surface.
Masonry tends to be alkaline, which prevents proper adhesion of many coatings and paint products. Acid washing neutralizes this alkalinity, leaving a coating-friendly surface. (Note: Before coating masonry check the coating’s label for acceptable surface alkalinity. pH Test kits are available for precise measurements.) Problem is you are too late for this now.
Muriatic acid is not the first choice for masonry cleaning but the last resort. Do not use this dangerous chemical unless you are sure you have no other choice.
For example, the most popular concrete and grout cleaners on the market contain phosphoric acid. This acid will, under most circumstances, do as good a job as muriatic acid… but with less danger. Phosphoric acid cleaners also contain chemicals which emulsify oils to help the acid work more effectively and safely increase its cleaning properties.
TSP (trisodium phosphate) is another formidable heavy-duty cleaning product and can be used to clean masonry surfaces that are going to be left uncoated. TSP does not etch or neutralize the surface alkalinity, so surface testing for pH should be done before coating TSP-cleaned masonry. Due to environmental concerns of phosphate pollution, TSP cannot be legally used in some areas. Also too late for you know.
Muriatic acid is always diluted before use. The standard dilution for most applications is one part muriatic acid to ten parts water. Be careful when mixing to avoid splashing the acid. Do not mix in a paper, ceramic or metal bucket… use a plastic bucket. Glass containers are also acceptable for measuring and mixing.
IMPORTANT: Always add acid to water… never add water to acid!!
How is muriatic acid mixed and applied?
Muriatic acid is always diluted before use. The standard dilution for most applications is one part muriatic acid to ten parts water. Be careful when mixing to avoid splashing the acid. Do not mix in a paper, ceramic or metal bucket… use a plastic bucket. Glass containers are also acceptable for measuring and mixing.
IMPORTANT: Always add acid to water… never add water to acid!!
“When water is added to muriatic acid, an exothermic (heat is given off) reaction occurs. This is often accompanied by a violent “belch” which propels the acid mixture out of the container and onto the person making the dilution! This occurs because the heat generated by the reaction is under the cooler water and causing it to expand rapidly. When the acid is poured slowly into the water, the cooler water layer is on bottom, so the heat generated is dissipated upwards at a slow speed.”
Also, never pour acid into an empty container. It can cause dangerous splashing.
Efflorescence is a fancy name for white, crystalline deposits that can appear on masonry or concrete. These deposits occur when moisture within the masonry rises to the surface, carrying minerals with it. The moisture evaporates, leaving the minerals behind. This often occurs with new masonry work and usually stops when the masonry has thoroughly dried.
However, if there is a source of moisture pushing through the masonry such as a damp below-grade foundation, the efflorescence will continue building up. I’ve seen some basement walls that looked like the Carlsbad Caverns!!
Severe, persistent efflorescence is not harmful, just a visible symptom of excessive moisture in the cement. Excessive moisture is the cause of a myriad of problems in the home, from stinky moldy basements to insect problems.
Today, there are various cement and non-cement-based products that can be used to seal foundation walls from the ins
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